On Zakynthos Street at the corner of Fokionos Negri, right next to the Demotiki Agora is Karabani, the quintessential basement laika and rembetika joint where Giannis Lempessis and his band play on Friday and Saturday nights and Sunday afternoon. They serve food, wine, beer and hard stuff and people do get up and dance quite often. For reservations call 210 8251896. The Sunday matinee starts at 1pm and for 20 euros you get food and drinks. (Now closed damn it)